Sunday, July 25, 2010

An Updated Banana's Fosters from Fine Cooking

Recently got the new issue of Fine Cooking Magazine, which I highly recommend subscribing to.
They have an updated version and classic version section for particular recipes. This month they did one of my favs, Banana's Fosters!!!!!! Here is the updated version below, FYI, I already tried it and words cannot describe how good it is. Enjoy!

For the chocolate crust
  • 7-7/8 oz. (1-3/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1 oz. (1/3 cup) unsweetened Dutch-processed cocoa powder
  • 6 oz. (3/4 cup) cold unsalted butter, diced
  • 1-3/4 oz. (6 Tbs.) confectioners’ sugar
  • 1 large egg
For the pastry cream
  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 6 large egg yolks
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 1-3/4 oz. (5 Tbs.) cornstarch
  • 2 tsp. dark rum
  • 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped out
  • 1/2 oz. (1 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
For the chocolate sauce
  • 1/2 lb. extra-bitter chocolate (67% to 72% cacao), preferably Valrhona, coarsely chopped
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1/4 cup whole milk
  • 2 Tbs. light corn syrup
  • 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
For the whipped cream
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 1 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar
  • 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
For assembly
  • 4 to 6 large ripe bananas (7 to 8 oz. each)
  • 10 tsp. turbinado sugar
  • Dutch-processed cocoa powder
  • Mint leaves (optional)
  • Rum-raisin ice cream, preferably Häagen-Dazs

Make the chocolate dough

 
Sift the flour and cocoa powder into a medium bowl.

 
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until smooth, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape the sides of the mixing bowl. Add the egg and beat well. In two batches, add the flour mixture and mix on medium-low speed until incorporated.

 
Scrape the dough onto plastic wrap, shape into a flat square, and wrap well. Refrigerate the dough for at least 4 hours or overnight.

 
Make the pastry cream

 
In a medium saucepan, heat the milk over medium-high heat until small bubbles form around the edges, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. In a medium bowl, whisk the yolks, sugar, cornstarch, rum, and vanilla seeds. Slowly whisk in the milk. Pour the mixture back into the pan and stir well. On medium heat, whisk until it boils and becomes thick and shiny, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the butter and mix on medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Pass the cream through a fine sieve into a shallow bowl. Transfer to a disposable pastry bag. Squeeze it down to the tip and refrigerate until ready to use. (The pastry cream can be made up to 1 day ahead.)

 
Make the chocolate sauce

 
Put the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. In a medium saucepan, heat the heavy cream, milk, corn syrup, and butter over medium heat. When steaming hot, pour the cream mixture over the chocolate and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk until smooth. Set aside.

 
Bake the crusts

 
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

 
Between two large sheets of parchment, roll the dough out into a 1/4-inch-thick rectangle that’s about 13-1/2x10 inches. Slide it onto a rimmed baking sheet and freeze. Once the dough is firm, after about 30 minutes, trim to 12-1/2x9 inches and then cut it into ten 2-1/2x4-1/2-inch rectangles. Arrange on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until set and dry, 10 to 15 minutes, rotating the pan after 5 minutes. Cool completely on the baking sheet on a rack.

 
Whip the cream

 
In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the cream on medium speed until it starts to thicken, about 2 minutes. Add the sugar and continue to beat until soft peaks form, about 1 minute. Add the vanilla and switch to a hand whisk, whipping until the cream forms stiff peaks.

 
Assemble the tarts

 
In a small saucepan, gently warm the chocolate sauce over low heat.

 
Cut a 1/2-inch hole at the tip of the bag of pastry cream. Pipe the cream in a zigzag pattern across each tart crust to cover completely.

 
Peel and cut the bananas into 2-1/2-inch lengths, then slice them lengthwise 1/8 inch thick. Shingle the bananas across the pastry cream. Sprinkle each tart with 1 tsp. turbinado sugar. Pass the flame of a small kitchen torch over the bananas until the sugar bubbles and caramelizes. Let cool briefly.

 
Transfer the whipped cream to another pastry bag, fitted with a star tip, and pipe a string of 1/2-inch rosettes down one long side of each tart over the bananas. Dust with cocoa powder. Garnish with mint leaves (if using).

 
Serve the tarts with a scoop of ice cream on the side. Pour the warm chocolate sauce over the tart at the table.
 
nutrition information (per serving):

 
Calories (kcal): 750; Fat (g): 45; Fat Calories (kcal): 400; Saturated Fat (g): 27; Protein (g): 10; Monounsaturated Fat (g): 8; Carbohydrates (g): 78; Polyunsaturated Fat (g): 1.5; Sodium (mg): 75; Cholesterol (mg): 260; Fiber (g): 4; photo: Scott Phillips

 
From Fine Cooking 106, pp. 87

Sunday, July 4, 2010

The Perfect Espresso

Pulling the Perfect Espresso

Last year I was travelling though Italy on a food, wine, olive oil, and scenery tour. My lovely wife and I worked our way from Venice to the Amalfi Coast, and everyday had multiple memories that will last a lifetime. Food and wine are a passion there, and unlike most North American places fast food is not just the golden arches. Everything there was done properly and done well when it came to anything food related. We saw men fishing in the early day time and serving what they caught us in the evening, if I had a craving for red snapper and none was caught, none was being had case closed. Throughout our travels, we asked many locals about the best place to eat in the particular area we may have been at the time and the answer was almost always the same, best place...”My house”...which was sometimes followed by, “you come, eat with us”.
I cannot wait to go back and cannot stress enough that if you have the chance to go, jump on it, but very importantly stay away from tourist areas and tourist traps, find out the where the locals eat, or go to their market and you will see the real Italy.
Before we had left for Italy, I was told by a good friend of mine who happens to be Italian that I would travel for my espresso. When I pushed for a more clear explanation, he told me how here if you want a coffee you pull into the nearest timmy’s, maybe starbucks or if you are really bold here in Ottawa you will hit Bridgehead. To top it off if you are in a rush you will get it from the drive through and drink it in the car towards your destination. My friend explained that in Italy you have to first find your favourite coffee place...sorry espresso! When Italians think of Americanized coffee they call it “Stained Water”, to them it is espresso for your caffeine fix. In Italy I was further told, that your favourite place does not have to be the corner destination, it can be a place 30 minutes down the road and they will go there multiple times a day for the hit of espresso. Initially I scoffed at the idea of finding a place, I like a good espresso and each place that, if it does it well would work for me. Well I was proven wrong! I enjoyed my espresso in most places, but about a 15 minute walk from my B&B in Florence was Corona’s Cafe, a place that had an espresso with my name on it. Cannot explain why, but the atmosphere the way the barrista pulled the shot of espresso, the mini antipasto plate served after work, just everything about this place was right for me. As I was told I would do, I made sure that two to three times a day I went for my favourite espresso from my new favourite place, and I really never really lingered there for more than 5-6 minutes, but when I needed my caffeine hit, there was only one place for me.

Many of the locals stand around have their quick hit, and head off to work, home or where ever their destination is, some linger on for a bit chatting it up with other locals, and then usually more cafe is ordered, then some vino, then some antipasto, then some more vino etc, etc, etc...

But one thing I noticed and also fell in love with was called cafe corretto, which means corrected with booze, yes booze! Think of it...a strong shot of caffeine topped with sambuca or grappa, I could have danced all night!
Anyways, below is a video from youtube about pulling the perfect espresso, also below is a list of the different types of cafe found in Italy. If you get the chance and there is a little Italy near where you live, try and find a good quality espresso like the one described in the video, then go back to Starbucks and order one from them or any other chain coffee shop and see the difference.

Espresso : known a Cafe in Italy, served in a 3 oz or demitasse cup. Strong in taste with a rich bronze froth known as a crema on top.

Doppio : Simply a double espresso.

Ristretto: More concentrated than a regular espresso that is made with less water.

Lungo or Caffe Americano: An Espresso made with more water - opposite a Ristretto.

Macchiato: Espresso that is "marked" with a dollop of steamed milk on top.

Corretto: Espresso that is "corrected" with grappa, cognac or sambuca.

Cappuccino: Espresso with foamed milk and containing equal parts espresso, steamed milk and foamed milk.

Cappuccino scuro: Cappuccino prepared with less milk and is a darker color.

Cappuccino chiaro: Cappuccino prepared with more milk (but less than a cafe latte) and is lighter in color.

Cafe' latte: Espresso made with more milk than a cappuccino but only a small amount of foam. In Italy it is usually a breakfast drink.

Latte macchiato: Steamed milk that is "marked" (sometimes ornately) with a shot of espresso coffee.